Showing posts with label underprocessing hair. Show all posts
Showing posts with label underprocessing hair. Show all posts

Thoughts on Relaxing, Texlaxing & "Under-processing" My Hair

In this hair community, I have what is considered to be a [transitioning to] "texlaxed" head of hair. Texlaxing is defined as intentionally under-processing your hair with a relaxer thereby leaving some of your hair's texture in it. I have to admit that I have a little issue with this term and definition. Let me explain why.

The first time I had texture left in my hair after a relaxer was also the first time I timed myself while self-relaxing. However, I didn't go by the recommended processing time in the kit instructions; instead, I started a timer and moved as fast [as I thought] possible in an attempt not to take longer than 30 minutes. I was done right around 30 minutes or so, rinsed and discovered most of my hair was still curly/wavy. Although I was frustrated by this at first, thinking I didn't leave it in long enough, I kinda liked the curls that were left. Thinking more about the process, 30 minutes is 5-10 minutes longer processing time than relaxer kits suggest even for a coarse hair type. Enter the conundrum.

source
I had never timed myself self-relaxing, nor had I witnessed my mother or any stylist time herself during a relaxer application. Ever. The burning/itching sensation was the tell-tale sign of it being time to rinse the relaxer out. Or the appearance of straight hair after smoothing the relaxer creme. So, if there is a suggested processing time, why have I never been told to use it or witnessed anyone else use it?! Also, wouldn't anything over the suggested processing time automatically equal over-processed hair? With this in mind, it would seem that the way I relax my hair now is not really underprocessing it, as much as it is following the directions. Using this logic, my hair had to have always been over-processed to achieve bone straight results. It's way too kinky/curly and thick to get straight in those suggested amounts of time.

A processing time that yields textured hair makes me to wonder if perhaps it wasn't always the intention of relaxer companies to create bone straight hair, but instead to just RELAX the current texture of our kinky, curly hair causing it to be more manageable. You know, that reason we relaxed ladies love to use for why we won't give up relaxers anyway? (Then again, when you think about the fact that super relaxers exist, that kind of wipes away the whole idea of leaving any texture behind.) To me, it's possible that relaxers have been made out to be the bad guy, when in all actuality, it's been a lack of using them correctly that's to blame for our dry, damaged, over-processed hair. This combined with improper hair care techniques and little to no knowledge of what our hair needs was a recipe for disaster. It's a shame it has taken this long for black hair care to be revolutionized and proper information for healthy hair care made available.

Granted, this is all speculation based on my experiences and observations. I recognize I could just be wrong and overthinking all of this, yet, it makes sense to me. I will continue to refer to my hair as texlaxed, of course. Let me know what you think ladies!

Relaxer Update

I relaxed my hair about a month ago, ending a 12 week stretch. I used Elasta QP's Ultra Hydration conditioning relaxer. I really like the way my hair feels after relaxing with this kit. It also under-processes my hair even if I leave it on for longer than the recommended processing time. 

Knowing I was soon to relax, I did a protein deep condition the wash day before my relaxer day. On relaxer day, I pre-pooed with Herbal Essences Honey I'm Strong and grapeseed oil for about an hour. After, I based my scalp with vaseline and also coated the length of my [previously relaxed] hair with it. 


shots of some of the texture left in my hair
Now that I am intentionally texlaxing/unprocessing my hair, my goal is to have a processing time of only 10-15 minutes max. I didn't make it this time. Came in right under 20 minutes. I also didn't add anything to the relaxer like I have the past two times. However, my hair still came out pretty darn textured and SO very thick. So I'm not upset at all. I'll move faster next time. 

Once I rinsed out the relaxer, I applied my protein treatment, this time using a spray bottle. Although the spray bottle made it a little less messy and Aphogee works well, I am considering finding another hard protein treatment. The sticky mess plus the bad smell makes me roll my eyes when I use it, honestly. I saturated my hair, made sure it was evenly distributed and then used a blow dryer to harden it. I rinsed in the shower, neutralized (3 lathers) and used Aphogee's balancing moisturizer, leaving it on my hair for about 5 minutes. 

 
Aphogee 2-step Protein Treatment (in spray bottle)


I used Beautiful Textures Rapid Repair Deep Conditioner along with Silk Dream Vanilla Silk Cream Moisture Dream conditioner to deep condition my hair. I mixed them in an empty jar and applied from root to tip. I put on a plastic cap and a scarf and left it on for about an hour and a half, spending half of that under my bonnet dryer. I rinsed with cool water followed by an apple cider vinegar rinse. 


Since I am participating in this protective styling challenge with a goal of using no heat, I did not straighten my hair or do a length check. But I will be very soon! I applied my usual leave-ins (Aphogee Green Tea & Keratin Restructurizer and Elasta QP Silk H2), let my hair air dry and put it up in my go-to bun. I was pleased with my results!


air-drying

Powered by Blogger.