DIY: Garlic-Infused Oil for Shedding

Garlic to help with hair shedding?! Some of you may have heard of this before, while for others this may be news fresh off the press. In my last wash day post, I mentioned using a homemade garlic-infused oil to help with my shedding issues. I have tried this a couple times before and always find it works wonderfully for me. I was definitely skeptical at first, but I love finding at home remedies that I can try out myself with little to know added cost. Plus, I knew there had to be something to it because there are numerous shampoos and conditioners that contain garlic as a primary ingredient, which are created to help with shedding, hair loss, and hair growth. So, the question is: why? 

Garlic is known to have a ton of health benefits, and it turns out that it has a number of benefits for your hair and scalp as well. Let's take a look at some of the things that make this pungent herb so beneficial. 

Sulfur: helps strengthen hair at the root - it is a component of many proteins including keratin. It is also great for stimulating blood flow which helps in growth and the removal of toxins in hair follicles. 

Calcium: also provides a structural component for hair

B & C Vitamins: Vitamin B helps in scalp circulation and lack of it is known to be a cause of hair loss. Vitamin C protects hair from breaking and boosts collagen for elasticity. 

Selenium: helps keep cell membranes in tact 

Copper: prevents defective hair growth

Along with these benefits, it tightens the pores to prevent hair loss, and has antiseptic properties. I found a couple studies on the positive effects garlic has on hair loss from issues such as Alopecia, but none specifically on shedding. As with most things in haircare, some people may experience no changes in shedding after using this, but for others (like me!) this might be a godsend. 

There are so many different ways you can do this. The first time I made some, I used the microwave. This time, I thought infusing the oil on the stove might deliver better results. Here's what I did:

1. I took 1-2 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced them up
2. Mixed grapeseed, olive, and coconut oils in an old Doo Gro bottle. 
3. Poured the oil into a post and added the garlic
4. Allowed to simmer for 30 mins
5. Poured back into the bottle, leaving the cloves in the pot. 

That is it! So easy. I am sensitive to garlic (the smell gives me a headache) so I didn't want to use very much. I hoped that the small amount would be strong enough to decrease my shedding and it was. Smell didn't even bother me. You can always try adding more garlic to achieve a stronger treatment. You can also add this oil to your conditioner. I like to use it as a pre-poo and pair it with a scalp massage. I have no issues with having my hair smell like garlic after it's been washed either. 

6 comments DIY, hair science, hair tips, homemade hair care, shedding issues

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Box Braidout: How I Took My Box Braids Out

I spent a few days taking my box braids down. I don't think it would have taken that long if I had actually just sat down and did it all at once. But hey, it was the holidays! I was keeping my nephews for a few days... lots of family & friends were in and out of the house... so yea, I wasn't really focused on it. I was glad I chose to take them out during this time though because I was off work and had plenty of hands that were willing to help. I promise taking these things down takes so much more time than putting them in does.

I am so happy I forced myself was able to keep these in for 6 weeks. It was a nice break from my hair. Other than being bored with them at this point, I was starting to get a significant amount of new growth (see below), which I did not want to get out of hand. I've heard of people's new growth and shed hair starting to coil on itself and causing a terrible mess once it was time to take them down. Def didn't want that to happen either. I think four weeks is my limit. That was about the point when I was over this style. So let's get to the how to's of taking out this style without damaging your hair and/or ruining all the progress that was made. 

Only cut the ends off to around two inches longer than the length of your actual hair. I had already cut these braids once because initially they were hip length. So, this time I knew I had to be a lot more careful with the scissors. In an effort to ease the process, numerous ladies make the mistake of cutting too much hair off the ends of this kind of style, and unfortunately, end up cutting their own hair as well. I made sure I avoided this by going down the braid the length of my hair and then adding a couple inches before cutting. It's much better to be safe than sorry, in my opinion.  

Use some oil, generously. I sprayed my hair with a very generous amount of an oil mix before I began taking them down. I also put some oil on my hands. The use of oil helps reduce friction both between your strands of hair and between your hands and your hair. It also helps to ease the removal of shed hair. Everything just glides right out. 

Actually unbraid the hair, don't try to comb out the braids. That may seem simplistic, but I think it's worth stating. I just went in reverse to unbraid the hair. When I was watching YouTube trying to learn how to box braid, one girl said "think of braiding as going down stairs and unbraiding as going back up the stairs". I thought that was a great analogy. I witnessed the ladies at the braiding salon taking down these styles by simply combing them with a small tooth comb. EEEKK!! One of my friends told me that she went to a salon to have hers taken out and that's exactly what they did. She lost so much hair as a result. Of course, using a rat tail comb by sticking its tail in the braid to help unravel it, like you would do with your fingers is helpful, too. I did that at times. 

Finish removing shed hair & detangle. I used more oil for this step! I think this is an important step, even more now that I've gone thru the whole process. Excess shed hair can and WILL become a tangled mess once you add water. I did not do as thorough of a job with this step as I thought I had. And sure enough it became obvious that I had not done the best possible job after I washed my hair. Sigh. So, oil your hair and hands some more, if needed, and take your time finger detangling and removing built up shed hair from your protective style. It will be worth it in the end. 

That's all I did and the braid out once I was done was awesome. I loved it and yes, I actually got to wear this one out. It was so big and defined. I have to figure out how to replicate these results without having to have box braids in first. I think most, if not all, of these steps work well whether you have box braids, kinky twists, or just cornrows. Taking care when you remove your protective style is just as important in your style's success as making sure the style is done correctly and maintaining your hair's health throughout the duration of the style. If not, your protective style may no longer be protective for your hair. 

8 comments box braid maintenance, box braids, hair tips, protective styles, taking out box braids

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5 Tips to Relieve a Dry, Itchy or Irritated Scalp [from Box Braids]

As popular as box braids are right now, I have found that there is not a lot of detailed info out about how to take care of them or the issues you may face when you have them. As I am about to hit six weeks with my braids and preparing to remove them, I have been reflecting over my experiences and want to share the things I have learned. The first two weeks of having these box braids were terrible on my scalp. It went from tightness, to soreness and irritation, to dry and itchy, the latter of which I probably would be dealing with in the winter time anyway. These are the best ways I have found to relieve all of those symptoms over the past month and a half.

{1&2} - Soothing Oil Mix & Scalp Massage

When I started taking my braids out the first few days after they were installed, I realized that I had not yet purchased any products particularly for caring for my hair in this style. My scalp was so sore and irritated that I knew it needed something. I found my essential oils: peppermint, tea tree, and rosemary. I mixed a few drops of each of those with about a fourth of a cup of (warmed) coconut oil and voila! It felt so good to rub that into my scalp, especially in the areas I had just taken out braids. I have been using this mix for the whole time now and I will probably continue to use it throughout the winter because it has kept my scalp in such good condition. It is also very easy to make and didn't cost anything since I already had the ingredients around my house.

The three essential oils I used are known to be great for scalp health. You will find them in most products marketed for helping with scalp issues. Peppermint oil has antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties, which help relieve itchiness. It also has the ability to absorb excess oils on your scalp and is stimulating so it promotes hair growth. I think peppermint oil is my favorite. It is a soothing treat. Tea tree oil has healing and antifungal properties. It blends well with our natural hair oils and prevents the growth of fungus on the scalp. Rosemary oil has pain relieving and antimicrobial properties. It is also known to stimulate hair follicles. Pairing this kind of oil mix with a scalp massage is awesome. Scalp massages on their own stimulate the scalp and hair follicles, which increases blood flow for healing and promotion of hair growth.

{3} - Braid Sprays
These sprays are kind of fundamental for this style; not just for moisturizing your hair, but also for scalp care while maintaining box braids. Two of the braid sprays I purchased also contained rosemary and tea tree oils. When I felt the dreaded "weave pat" coming on because my head was starting to itch, I often reached for one of these. There are braid sprays that are specifically for moisturizing, scalp relief, itching and tightness relief, and combinations of those. I bought three because I'm a product junkie I wasn't sure which would work best for my hair. One I pretty much used the entire bottle of because it worked so well, another was fine and the thrid I could've completely went without.

{4} - Dry shampoo
I have heard a lot about dry shampoo, but never had a real reason to want to try it before these braids. Dry shampoo allows you to clean your scalp and hair without having to wet your hair. Some dry shampoos are powder-like sprays that you just wipe off, while others are more like a gel that you apply and wipe out. The one I purchased was a gel-like, and although I was skeptical about it, I liked the concept of being able to ensure I only had to wash my hair every two weeks by cleaning my scalp in between wash days with this. It works well and my scalp felt fresh & clean enough to last to the next wash day. It was pretty easy to use, too. It didn't take very long to do my whole scalp. If you look close below, you can see the gel just stayed right where I put it on my scalp until I wiped it away.  

using "dry shampoo"

{5} - Wash It!
I know people try to resist washing their hair as much as possible when wearing this kind of protective style in an effort to preserve the style as long as possible. However, if you are having issues with your scalp and hair feeling dry, washing your hair might be exactly what is needed. Especially if you've tried every other tip and are still experiencing problems with dryness and itchiness. Product buildup is real and it will prevent your hair and scalp from accepting anymore moisture. Any product you put on will just sit on top of it. You may not have to wash it as often as I did mine, just make sure you are monitoring your scalp and washing it when it needs to be washed.

One reason women get braids is to allow their hair time to grow without a lot of manipulation. If your scalp is dirty, has product buildup or other issues, it is not going to be a good environment to promote hair growth. Your hair will inevitably grow, but not like it would in a healthy, clean environment. Plus there are ways you can wash your hair and still maintain a fresh look. Check out how I wash my braids here. You don't have to sacrifice the health of your hair and scalp to ensure your style is long lasting.  

39 comments box braid maintenance, box braids, hair tips, scalp issues

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Improving the State of My Nape

Oh, the nape, the hair right above the back of our necks - what a problem area this is for many black women. Some women have no problem whatsoever with their napes, however, for many of us, it may seem like an area that just is not meant to grow very long. This has been the case with my nape for as long as I can remember. It's always the first area to break off if I am experiencing breakage and its length retention has been virtually non-existent. It is, sadly, also the target of my hand-in-hair syndrome. Sigh. When my hands subconsciously venture into my hair, here is where they rest, rub and probably wreak havoc. If I am extremely stressed, this is where my hair thins first. You get it, right? You name it, here is the place it has happened.

I wish I had thought to take a picture of the state of my nape when I began all of this because I'm positive it was a lot worse off than it is now. That said, pictured to the left is the current state of my nape. I think it is about shoulder length, a kind of thin shoulder length. I think that both relaxing my hair less often and leaving this area for last (to process the least amount of time), have contributed to allowing my nape to progress more than it has in the past. Still, it is not as healthy as I know it could be or even as healthy as the hair directly above it (see pic below). I want to be more intentional about changing that. 

There are numerous factors that are known to play a role in nape breakage and/or thinness. The hair at the nape can often be finer, less dense, softer, or a completely different texture from other areas of your hair which causes it to be more prone to breakage. For example, the hair at my nape (and in the back of my head overall) is much more kinky and coarse than the rest of my hair. This makes it more tangle prone and harder to keep moisturized in comparison. Combined with this are a list of things that can keep this area damaged such as: too much manipulation (with your fingers, combs and/or brushes), too much tension (from too tight buns, braids and other styles), overprocessing with harsh chemicals, friction (from headbands, clothing, scarves and/or coats), and heat damage.

To me, the hair at the back of my head is seemingly less thick than the rest of my hair. I haven't completely figured out why that is yet. Even with that, the hair at my nape is noticeably shorter and thinner than the hair directly over it. So, I need to step up my game of taking care of my nape. I already relax it last and it is now the most textured part of my hair due to that. That's about where my extra care stops.

Left: from middle of my ears down, Right: from top of my ears & down

Right now, I just want to make a few changes to see if they make a difference. My first goal is to try to make a conscious effort to keep my hands out of it. Extra moisturizing and sealing is next on the list. I want to start paying special attention here like I do the ends of my hair. I need to cut down on styles that cause me to put too much tension on my nape. Or perhaps just embracing messy hair a little more would help, too. Lastly, I will be more mindful, during this winter season, of my turtlenecks, scarves and coats contact with my hair. I also have a go-to headband that ties in the back which could be contributing to the problem. The thought of giving that up is just sad. Hopefully, this will be a good start to improving the current state of my nape.

Anyone else have any trouble with their hair at the nape?

4 comments hair journey, hair tips, length check, nape hair, nape issues, progress pics

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Apple Cider Vinegar & Your [Relaxed] Hair

Apple cider vinegar has countless benefits for our bodies, both inside and out, including our hair. If you were to do a Google search for apple cider vinegar and black hair, you would get loads of natural haired ladies raving about using it for their hair. Well ladies, I'm here to tell you, it works for those of us with relaxed hair, too. I have been using it for awhile now, and I love it. So, what's so beneficial about ACV? Glad you asked! Here's the science behind why ACV works for our hair.

Organic ACV is, of course, made from pure apple cider that has been allowed to ferment naturally. Since it is not distilled like other vinegars, it maintains the enzymes, minerals and valuable nutrients that would be destroyed by that process. One easy way to know your ACV has all this yummy goodness is by making sure it still contains what is called "the mother" of the the vinegar. "The mother" is the solid layer that forms on top of the vinegar during the fermentation process. It is also what makes organic ACV better for you than the filtered and/or distilled kind. It is quite acidic, having a pH of about 3. The natural enzymes & nutrients combined with the acidic nature of ACV are what can produce great benefits for our hair.

Our hair has a natural pH of about 5, making it slightly acidic. Different factors, such as shampooing or relaxing, can cause our hair's pH to be raised to more of an alkaline state which usually equals unhappy hair. Hair in this state often has raised cuticles, is more porous, and retains less moisture, which makes it dull, dry, rough to the touch and harder to detangle. As we know, one of the main ingredients in relaxers is sodium hydroxide, which is a very basic (alkaline) chemical that gives our hair a much higher pH than it naturally has. Not only is this just one reason it's very important to neutralize effectively after relaxing, but it is also why ACV rinses on relaxer days can be very helpful. Using ACV will further reduce the pH of your strands, putting them closer to their natural state of being acidic. This action closes the cuticles of your hair, making hair smooth as they lie down flat. This will do several things for your hair:

• Improve porosity - locks in both moisture & protein and improves you hair's ability to maintain it
• Ease detangling - raised cuticles create friction with each other and combs, making detangling a hassle and breakage more likely. Smooth cuticles glide easier beside each other, with the comb and through your fingers. This also reduces tangles. 
• Add shine - because light reflects off of smooth surfaces, closed cuticles will make your hair appear shinier and reduce frizz.
• Prevent split ends - smooth, flat cuticles are less prone to splitting
• Enhance straightening results -  smooth hair is easier to straighten and will take less heat passes to yield the flat, bone straight results most desired when flat ironing

In addition to the benefits of its acidic nature, the enzymes and nutrients contained in ACV have anti-fungal and antibacterial properties that promote a healthy scalp. These contents, specifically malic & tartic acids, have the ability to kill the germs that are responsible for issues such as dandruff and a dry, itchy scalp. They also stimulate the scalp, which increases blood flow, and have been known to good for cleansing, clarifying and treating hair loss. I, however, cannot attest to any of the latter. I haven't used the ACV combined with baking soda method to cleanse or clarify my hair, and don't have any hair loss to treat. 

What I can say for certain is that regular ACV rinses have made my hair healthier. I use a ratio of not quite 4:1 (water:acv). You should experiment some with the ratio to find out how much you need to dilute you ACV; an overly acidic mixture can dry out your hair.  I spray the mixture on my scalp and the length of my hair after rinsing my deep conditioner out. I let this sit for a few minutes and then rinse with the coolest water I can stand. It is important to note the use of cool or cold water for this final rinse, as cold water also aids in the closing of hair cuticles. The only downside would have to be the stinky feet smell. Don't worry though, it goes away once your hair is dry. Oh, and don't get it in your eyes! Lol!

Since incorporating these rinses in my wash days, I have experienced all of the bullet points listed above and a healthier scalp. They are a staple. I can tell the difference immediately when I have skipped so it's always my final rinse now. I used to have issues with dandruff and a dry, itchy scalp, which I no longer struggle with. While I'm sure some of my other healthy hair habits play a role in that result, I know apple cider vinegar has also played a key role in helping with that. Best of all, all of this comes from a $6 bottle (mine is pictured above) that you can get at your local grocery store and has lasted me all of this year. Can't beat that! 

Don't just take my word for it! Here are some other helpful links about the benefits of ACV:

Hair Care and Organic Apple Cider Vinegar - blackhairinformation.com
6 Ways to Use Apple Cider Vinegar - Black Girl Long Hair
Apple Cider Benefits - ACVbenefits.com
How to Use ACV for Beautiful Hair & Skin - Huffington Post

Does anyone else do ACV rinses?

21 comments acv, apple cider vinegar rinse, hair science, hair tips, homemade hair care

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1 Year Later... (Hair-anniversary!)

As I was reflecting on the end of the protective styling challenge coming and anticipating the length of my hair, I realized it's officially been one year since I started this whole "hair journey" thing (I really don't like to call it that lol!). A full year of researching and being intentional about my hair care with the purpose of growing my hair down my back. Yaaay! It's always great when you commit yourself to doing something and can look back and see the progress that has been made because you stayed committed.

I like to think I had a nice amount of hair knowledge and a solid head of hair beforehand. Fortunately for me, I didn't start this with a head full of damage to overcome. I just felt like I was stuck at just past shoulder length hair, despite the fact that I always had a significant amount of new growth every 8-10 weeks. It was a conundrum to me. So I brought it up to my stylist (whom I love!) and was catapulted into this whole world of hair science, tip, tricks and healthy hair enthusiasts. 

Here is what my hair looked like last year, April 2012:

click to enlarge

And what it looks like now, at my most recent length check, April 2013:

click to enlarge

I would have to say that this past year has been a great success! I haven't had any setbacks and I have made, what I consider to be, a significant amount of progress. My hair is so thick now, and slowly, but surely, it is inching down my back. I don't think my hair has ever been this long (or healthy!). Nor do I think I actually knew too much about what my hair needed before I started this. My hair is now thriving, from learning information that, initially, I thought was just doing entirely too much and applying it to my hair care. When I first started reading about all these BLACK women talking about washing and deep conditioning their hair weekly (sometimes more often!), and moisturizing and sealing daily and blah blah blah. I was like... "-_- you're kidding me right? That's doing entirely too much! I don't eva gots the time for that!..." Not to mention the loads of hair myths that entered my mind at the thought of doing some of these things.

Ha! Boy was I wrong! Even though I thought these ideas were ridiculous, I was still willing to at least try them out. Why you ask? Because the women who were going on and on about these tips had beautiful heads of hair! Like heads of hair that made me no longer consider my hair to be allll that. I wanted that. So I went for it and I'm so glad I did because they worked. My scalp now gets a serious attitude with me if I try to go two weeks without washing it. My hair cries when I don't moisturize and seal. And I feel like something is wrong if I haven't deep conditioned in over a week. I don't even remember the last time I used my curling iron. It's no longer my go to when my hair's not working the way I want it. Check out my full regimen here (got a new tab up there, too!).

I have learned so much and I know I still have so much to learn. The nerdy girl in me loves all the [good] science research behind many of the hair rules I now follow. While I haven't had any setbacks, it certainly wasn't easy getting myself used to this whole new way and mindset of taking care of my hair. Old habits die hard and progress is a process. So to any of you ladies who have just started out, only been going for a matter of months, or even have been in this longer than I have and are just not seeing the progress you would like - I say: STICK WITH IT!! I was blessed to kinda know my hair and have a stylist, who definitely knew my hair and was big on healthy hair practices, to give me the push I needed. It really boils down to learning your hair; what it loves, hates, and needs. What works for me may not work for you, that's a serious annoying truth of hair care. However, learning will always be worth the time it took in the end.

*cheers to another year!!*

12 comments hair anniversary, hair journey, hair tips, length check, progress pics

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Protective Styling

What is it? Protective styling is defined as any style that protects or hides the ends of your hair, such as buns, braids or twists, and weaves or wigs. It seems to be the holy grail of many women's hair care journeys in order to maximize length retention. Granted, it is not solely protective styling that is responsible for length retention. It must be done along with other healthy hair habits. I've seen many women, who in the quest to achieve hair to the middle of their backs or waists, do nothing but wear their hair in buns alllll the time. Or at least claim to protective style 90% of the time. Their hair inches down their backs rather quickly. And beautifully at that. It can't be me though. I'm not knocking them. They reach their goals. It just can't be the way I reach mine. 

flat twisted crown

Why does it work? Black women love to say their hair doesn't grow, yet they stay relaxing their new growth regularly. When you think about it like that it doesn't make much sense, but when you're constantly staring at your never-moving-passed-shoulder-length hair, you can't help but feel like your hair is not growing. The problem is that, for a number of reasons, we have trouble retaining our length. Our ends are the oldest, most fragile part of our hair. They get dry, they break. They rub against our clothes, scarves, coats, etc., they break. The harsh weather damages them, they break. See the pattern? Protective styling keeps our hair from all of these negative interactions, enabling it to stay on our heads and move passed our shoulders. There are, however, do's and don'ts that ensure successful protective styling. I will have to do another post on those specifics.  

When I first started all this, I didn't think I would make protective styling a regular part of my hair care routine at all. Mostly because it seemed way too boring to me. However, after I had given up on straightening my hair last summer, I joined a 3-month protective styling challenge to get myself to try new things. It worked! And some of the styles I tried out I began to love. It also helped me keep my hands out of my hair. Since then, however, I wouldn't even know what percentage to say I protective style. I do it when: 1) I feel like wearing one of those styles I like, 2) my ends feel dry and I want put them away, 3) I have a lot of new growth and can do nothing else with my hair. 

 all tucked away in a headband

I really enjoy playing with my hair (not over-manipulating it lol). I like trying new styles with it. I like switching things up. I get bored easily so I can't commit to one style for a long period of time. I haven't tried sew-in weaves or wigs (yet) so I'm not sure how I would do with that. But I've seen enough length retention in the past 8 months to be content with staying this way. I am thinking of doing another 3-month challenge though. Because I enjoyed the first one so much and this one has prizes!

LOVE the high bun!

Leave a Comment hair tips, protective styles

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